The idea of spending summer in Albania came after seeing numerous viral posts on social media. Everything about it seemed appealing: spectacular beaches, stunning sunsets, rich history from its communist past, and its reputation as one of the most affordable destinations in Europe. It seemed like the perfect mix, so we booked our flight and landed last August in this so-called “new oasis.” But was it worth it?
First Stop: Tirana
Our goal was to explore Albania’s paradisiacal beaches, so we planned a 15-day itinerary allowing us to move around. We started in Tirana, not only because it’s the capital but also because it has the country’s main international airport. That’s where our journey began—and where the challenges started.
One key thing to note: most payments in Albania are made in cash, and the local currency is the lek. While some places accept euros, I recommend exchanging at least €100 at the airport for convenience upon arrival. Avoid exchanging more, as airport rates are higher than those in the city.
Tirana’s airport was overcrowded and somewhat disorganized, but the real hassle was finding a taxi. We hadn’t booked one in advance, so we ended up walking with our luggage and daughter to the main road to flag one down. Most taxis at the airport were either taken or waiting for specific passengers. Lesson learned: book a taxi in advance.
We opted not to bring a stroller since our daughter had long refused to use one, and while this made traveling lighter and more practical, there were moments when it would have been helpful—like when she was too tired to walk. Still, we managed without any major issues.
In Tirana, we stayed at a well-located aparthotel in Blloku, one of the city’s most vibrant neighborhoods. It was the perfect base, close to Tirana’s top attractions, bars, restaurants, and shops. The lively atmosphere, with music, terraces, and outdoor patios, made exploring with a toddler enjoyable.
We loved walking to landmarks like Skanderbeg Square, the Et’hem Bey Mosque, the Tirana Pyramid, the National Historical Museum, and Tirana Castle. Being centrally located saved us the hassle of taking taxis, which I highly recommend if you’re visiting with kids.
Next Stop: Sarandë
After four nights in Tirana, we headed southwest to Sarandë, a coastal town gaining popularity for its beaches and proximity to Corfu, Greece. However, getting there was an adventure in itself due to Albania’s chaotic transportation system. Booking bus tickets, or even finding the correct bus, was messy and stressful. Note: everything is cash-only, and tickets can’t be booked online.
In Sarandë, we stayed near the Corfu ferry station, a convenient location close to shops and restaurants. However, the town itself was chaotic and not ideal for families. If you’re young, looking for budget-friendly travel, and enjoy beach parties, Sarandë might be for you. For a family trip, though, I’d recommend skipping it.
The local beaches were small, pebbly, and overcrowded, often covered with artificial sand. To experience truly beautiful beaches, we took a boat tour to explore nearby islands and secluded beaches in the Ionian Sea. While the boat ride was scenic, our daughter wasn’t a fan of it. These tours typically visit 4–5 spots, giving you a few hours at each beach, many of which offer sunbeds. Check this detail before booking your tour.
Meanwhile, while still in Sarandë, we visited Butrint National Park, one of the most significant Roman towns of Epirus. Now recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it stands as one of the most iconic archaeological parks in Albania and the entire Balkan Peninsula. Just a few kilometers from the stunning beaches of Ksamil and the town of Sarandë, Butrint offers a captivating blend of history and nature.
This park is incredibly vast and fascinating, but be prepared for a lot of walking! If you’re planning to visit during the summer, I wouldn’t recommend heavy or leather sneakers—opt for lightweight trainers or comfortable sandals instead. Also, don’t forget to bring plenty of water, as there’s only one restaurant/café on-site, and it’s quite a distance away. Plus, keep in mind that they only accept cash!
The downside of this trip was the logistics, as it’s nearly impossible to plan everything in advance. Simple things, like buying bus or park tickets, turned out to be surprisingly complicated—even though we were relatively close to Sarandë.
The great thing about Sarandë is its strategic location—not only is it close to Corfu, Greece, but also to Butrint Park and Gjirokastër, a picturesque Ottoman-era town known as the “Stone City.” Gjirokastër was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005 as a rare example of a well-preserved Ottoman settlement, built by large estate farmers.
We had the opportunity to visit Gjirokastër, and yes, it’s absolutely stunning. Be prepared for plenty of walking and climbing, as the town is built on steep mountain hills. One must-see attraction is the Gjirokastër Castle, a massive hilltop fortress that stands as the second-largest fortification in the entire Balkan region. From the castle, you get breathtaking views of the city and the beautiful Drino Valley, framed by majestic mountain ranges on all sides.
If you’re planning to visit this historic town, I highly recommend leaving early in the morning, around 9 or 9:30 at the latest. Since you can’t purchase bus tickets in advance, you’ll need to buy them on the same day. However, keep in mind that there’s no direct bus to the Stone Town— the bus will drop you off nearby, but you’ll need to either take a taxi or walk the rest of the way. We opted for a taxi since the weather was extremely hot and the distance was quite far, but finding one wasn’t easy. So, be prepared for a bit of chaos!
Ksamil: A Mixed Bag
Our final destination was Ksamil, often described as the “jewel of the Ionian Sea.” However, our excitement quickly faded upon arrival. The town was chaotic, with no sidewalks, forcing us to walk on the road—a challenge given Albania’s infamous driving style. For families with young kids, this was a significant drawback.
The beaches in Ksamil were also noisy and overcrowded, with blaring music competing from various spots. While we eventually found quieter beaches with no loudspeakers, they had pebbles instead of the fine sand we’d hoped for. These beaches were peaceful, less crowded, and more affordable, but reaching them required a taxi each time due to the lack of sidewalks.
Dining in Ksamil was another challenge. The food was generally overpriced and underwhelming compared to Tirana. However, we did find one decent restaurant, Ftelea Markate Peshku, where the portions were good, and prices were reasonable.
Back to Tirana
After our time in Ksamil, we returned to Tirana for a couple of days before heading home. Exhausted from the trip, we kept it simple, strolling through the city and enjoying better dining options.
If you’re seeking a family-friendly paradise, Albania might not be the best choice. However, if you’re young, love a party vibe, and don’t mind loud music, it could be a budget-friendly option. For us, this trip didn’t meet our expectations, but it was an adventure nonetheless.
